Renowned for its exceptional timepieces, Chopard embraced avant-garde trends in the 1960s, pushing the boundaries of jewelry design. By the late 1960s and early 1970s, the cuff bracelet re-emerged in fashion, reflecting a broader global influence, particularly from non-Western aesthetics. In the United States, the revival was further fueled by a growing interest in American Indian culture, which significantly shaped jewelry and fashion design during this era—a theme unmistakable in this example. The bracelet’s rugged gold surface, irregular edges, and asymmetrical openings embody the raw, textured quality characteristic of the time. This cuff watch blurs the line between functional accessory and artful jewelry, featuring small faceted diamonds delicately recessed into the surface. These stones enhance the cuff’s elegance but avoid overt opulence, blending seamlessly into the textured gold. The watch face itself is unmarked, free from numerals, and set against a deep, semi-precious lapis lazuli background, emphasizing the piece’s decorative rather than practical purpose. Here, time becomes secondary—this is a statement of artistry, not merely a timekeeper.

Barbara Anton’s designs often reflected her appreciation for pearls, which she admired for their natural elegance and versatility. In this exquisite necklace, irregularly shaped pearls in soft pastel hues are the centerpiece, their organic forms enhanced by Anton’s masterful design. Tendrils of textured gold weave through the clusters, adding a dynamic contrast to the pearls’ subdued luster. Many of the pearls are anchored by rough-headed gold nuggets, while faceted diamonds provide a brilliant sparkle that elevates the composition. This necklace exemplifies Anton’s commitment to creating wearable art, with intricate details extending to its reverse side, which is hinged in multiple parts to ensure it rests gracefully and comfortably on the wearer. By the mid-1960s, pearls had transitioned from the simple strands popularized by fashion icons like Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and Jacqueline Kennedy to bold, innovative designs such as this. A staunch advocate for affordable cultured pearls, Anton’s creativity and skill garnered her numerous accolades, including awards from the Cultured Pearl Associations of America and Japan. This particular piece received the highest honors for outstanding design, cementing her legacy as a pioneer of modern pearl jewelry. (24.8 x 18.4 x 2.5 cm)

In response to the sweeping cultural changes of the 1960s and 1970s, Cartier, like other prominent jewelry houses, sought to modernize its offerings and appeal to a younger, more progressive clientele. This pendant, part of a commissioned series of 33 pieces, represents the collaboration between Cartier and the avant-garde French sculptor César. Known for pushing the boundaries of traditional jewelry design, César brought a bold, artistic perspective to the series. Inspired by his large-scale compression sculptures, César’s work was deeply rooted in the ideals of the Nouveau Réalisme movement, which sought to challenge perceptions of art by incorporating everyday objects into creative expression. His compression sculptures typically utilized materials such as vehicles, scrap metal, cutlery, Plexiglas, and cardboard. For this pendant, César applied the same philosophy on a smaller scale, meticulously compressing miscellaneous Cartier jewelry to create a compact, rectangular totem. The result is a wearable sculpture that retains the aesthetic essence of César’s larger works. By carefully arranging colors and shapes within the compressed form, César transformed discarded jewelry into an abstract yet recognizable piece, a testament to his innovative vision and Cartier’s willingness to embrace modern art in fine jewelry.

This extraordinary piece by Gilbert Albert epitomizes his deep reverence for the natural world. Echoing the visage of an owl, likely inspired by the majestic Eurasian eagle-owl native to Europe, the design captivates with its remarkable versatility and artistic ingenuity. The piece transforms seamlessly between an ornate bracelet, where the curved arcs evoke the owl’s prominent ear tufts, and a brooch. The owl’s face, meticulously crafted, features pear-shaped pearls and intricately faceted diamonds set on a gold framework resembling delicate feathers. At its heart, ammonite fossils replicate the wide-eyed intensity of the owl’s gaze, while a suspended baroque pearl forms the beak, adding a touch of elegance and movement. Albert’s innovative approach extends beyond conventional materials. While gold, silver, and precious stones serve as the foundation, his true artistry lies in incorporating elements from the natural world, including scarab beetles, meteorite shards, lava rocks, animal fur, and fossilized remains. By transforming these materials, Albert creates pieces that transcend jewelry, celebrating the intersection of art, history, and nature.

The 1960s marked a transformative era in jewelry design, emphasizing drama and dimension. Rather than being mere adornments, these pieces became intimate sculptures—miniature works of art that blurred the line between jewelry and personal expression. This evolution empowered both the maker and the wearer to view jewelry as more than a showcase for precious materials, embracing its potential as a bold, three-dimensional statement. This stunning bracelet, inspired by the form of a wrist corsage, exemplifies the era’s innovative spirit. Modeled after a single bloom, perhaps an Asiatic lily, the flower is meticulously crafted from highly polished gold. Each petal is perforated and adorned with linear rows of petite diamonds and pearls, adding texture and brilliance. The stamens, bursting confidently from the flower’s center, are capped with larger diamonds and pearls, creating a striking focal point. Extending this organic motif, the bracelet’s “leaves” are intricately detailed with raised tendrils and globules of gold, enhancing the piece’s dimensionality and reinforcing its status as both a wearable accessory and a sculptural masterpiece.

These rigid cuffs, with their free-form design, reflect one of the many exotic themes that inspired Van Cleef & Arpels. Drawing influence from late Etruscan hammered and embossed techniques, these pieces seamlessly blend modernity with the grandeur of large-scale sculptural jewelry from the 1970s. Produced in a limited edition during the decade, they became icons of the era. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis famously owned a version of these gold cuffs and was often photographed wearing them at notable events, including a tribute to performer Josephine Baker and in conversation with boxer Muhammad Ali. This particular pair is dated 1977.